Tuscan Hill Towns

October 18-20
(Sorry this one got a bit long....)

Got a rental car and decided to brave the roads! A bit daunting at first, but with Gary as the superb driver that he is, and me navigating, we were ready to go.

Gary's happy to have some wheels!

Driving through the picturesque countryside, "in Toscana", is like driving within a postcard. Everywhere you look, there are vineyards and olive groves alternating in a patchwork pattern around
old stone farm houses.

All of these old medieval towns have the same basic layout: tourists can't drive into the historical center (centro storico), which are often encircled by existing medieval walls, so you park in a lot outside of this area and walk into the center. Outside of the centro storico, you will find modern housing and services like any other city-typically not interesting to the traveler. Stepping within the walls is like an instant transport back about 800 years, and it feels as though a mounted knight could come around the corner at any minute! Fortunately for the tourists, no cars (or knights) in these areas are likely to be encountered, and strolling down the streets to the central piazza is the main event.

Wandering into town

Centro storico

Cute lanes throughout town

Emily-style photo op!

We set off for San Gimingnano on Friday 10/18, only about 40 minutes outside of Siena. This is the Tuscan hill town famous for all of its towers, making this town one you can spot from a long distance. In the 13th century, 72 towers were built by families as part of their home protection system, of which 14 still remain. San Gimignano has a beautiful piazza with several ristoranti offering outside seating.

San Gimignano

Towers 

Yet another tourist pose

Beautiful piazza in San Gimignano

Depending on our appetite, we will either get lunch on the piazza at a nice trattoria, or stop at a "bar" for a quick panino and cappuccino (hot tea, "te' caldo", per me!).  Eating while standing at the bar, or perhaps sitting if they have a few tables, is a common and economical way to eat a quick breakfast or lunch throughout Italy- typically good food for a very reasonable price.

Il pranzo al bar

After walking and taking tons of photos, it was time to head off to another historic hill town, Volterra. This town was an important Etruscan city over 2000 years ago, and was then settled by the Romans. Part of a Roman amphitheater, built in about 40 B.C, was lost (filled in) to be re-discovered and excavated in the 1950's.

On the way to Volterra

Roman ruins in Volterra

Torch-holding fist from ancient times still on the walls of ancient buildings

Weary of walking and walking around the towns, the best remedy we've found is a little snack "con dolce" in the afternoon.

Cappuccino, tea and dolce

Saturday (Sabato), 10/19, we explored the tiny fortress town Monteriggioni, just outside of Siena.
You can literally walk from one side of town to the other in about 10 minutes and you can also walk along the fortress walls for an amazing view. Eating seems to be the favorite (only?) pastime here, so we had a lovely lunch on the piazza.

Within the Fortress in Monteriggioni

Lunch on the piazza

Full from lunch, we drove through the hills to Castellina in Chianti.  In the heart of the Sienese Chianti region, we poked  through many wine-shops. Gary was particularly enamored with the black-rooster emblem of the region.

Enoteca (wine shop) in Chianti

Sunday am, we checked out of our rustic, ok-a bit dumpy apt, in Siena, to head for the farm where we will be staying for a week (more about that in the next blog). On the way, we diverted to see another hill town, Cortona, made famous by the Frances Mayes experience ("Under the Tuscan Sun" book/movie).  Cortona is especially hilly and provides a great workout!

On the way to Cortona

Hilly streets in Cortona

While Gary enjoyed yet another cappuccino on the piazza, I ducked into the local museum to see some masterpieces by Cortona-born, Luca Signorelli. They also have a beautiful Fra Angelico "Annunciation", evidently a pre-quel of the famous fresco he did at San Marco in Florence (see second day in Florence for comparison!).

Signorelli's "Lamentation over the Dead Christ"

Fra Angelico's earlier "Annunciation"

I'm proud to say, we hiked to the top of the town to the Basilica Santa Margherita, quite beautiful with unusual red/white striped marble interior.

Hilly climb to the top of town

Santa Margherita

Inside Basilica 

We topped off this feat with another lovely Tuscan lunch at a ristorante overlooking the Piazza, and couldn't have been happier!

On the way to the farm, stopped off in Castiglione del Lago (yup, they have a castle too!), on the shore of Lake Trasimeno. The tiny centro storico in this town has several gourmet shops selling spices and cheese. We tasted some delicious pecorino cheese that we had to buy for our evening
antipasto!

Castiglione del Lago

Yummy gourmet markets